Thursday, October 8, 2009

"You must learn one thing. The world was made to be free in. Give up all the other worlds except the one to which you belong." David White



Three months after moving to Costa Rica following graduation from University, I had to decide where I would travel for at least 72 hours in order to follow the visa regulations and refresh the visa for another 90 days. My work as a private English teacher, masseuse at a spa, and bartender allowed me the flexibility to take time off. With all the foreigners living in paradise, it was easy to find someone willing to leave the country with me. The Peruvian surfista and student of mine, Dante, agreed to venture to Panama for a little over a week. We decided to take the bus from San Jose to Panama City in which we would spend a couple nights, rent a car and drive to an all-inclusive resort for another couple nights and then finally make our way to the infamous island of Bocas del Toro before flying back to Costa Rica. It was a whirlwind of a trip in so many ways but a spectacular journey in to a new culture. Although Panama is just south of Costa Rica, it is unique in its places, people, energy and food most predominately Caribbean and Spanish. Lining the waterfront is a city that has a Miami vibe with tall buildings and massively modern shopping malls. While impressed by the money evident in the beautiful buildings and homes of the city, the drastic juxtaposition of the poor and run-down slums along the outskirts of the city was impressionable.
Due to its location the country is home to a vast array of fresh and tasty fruits, herbs, vegetables, and seafood and combined with influences from the Native Indians, Europeans and other Latin American, Panama is rich in the culinary arts. One of my favorite dishes across Central America is ceviche, a tangy dish of chopped up fish “cooked” in lemon juice and flavored with other herbs, cilantro and added vegetables. In Costa Rica and Panama, it’s usually accompanied by a package of Soda crackers (saltines) that soaks up the acidity and provides the perfect crunch. Throughout Central America, ceviche became one of my go-to comfort foods whether I was at a hole-in-the-wall bar or a more upscale restaurant. Each place creates its own unique version of ceviche based on the season and influences of the region, culture or chef. One of the most memorable ceviche experiences was in Panama City the afternoon we arrived and drove the rental car to Balboa Ave that stretches all the way from the main Casco Viejo past the marina where we landed at a laid back open-air restaurant and ordered a Balboa beer and ceviche as we were absorbed by the picturesque views of the city skyscrapers and bay. Every bite of the tortilla chip topped with ceviche was as refreshing as the breeze. The acidity from the lemons was perfectly balanced by the smoothness of the garnish of aguacate.

In New York, there are cevicherias popping up all around. I visited Mercadito a while back in the Lower East side eager to get a taste of Central America in the big apple. Unfortunately, I was disappointed by the ceviche tasting, but perhaps I was spoiled living on the water where we had access to the freshest seafood and restaurants where the food was prepared by the Latina grandmother that has been making home-made ceviche all her years. We tried the following ceviches:
dorado – mahi mahi, avocado, tomato, orange-chile de arbol broth
robalo – wild striped bass, mango, chile piquin, tamarind-apple soda broth
mixto – shrimp, octopus, scallops, tomato, roasted garlic-jalepeno broth
While I still enjoyed the tasting (as I usually always do experiencing something new), I believe that ceviche isn’t meant to be so complicated.
Ceviche de corvina
1 lb. boneless fish, preferably White Sea Bass (Corvina)
1 1/3 cups fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1 1/2 cups finely chopped onion
1/2 cup finely chopped red bell pepper
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow bell pepper
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
salt to taste
Cut the corvina (sea bass) into bite-size pieces and place in a glass bowl or container of at least 2 inches high. Add all the other ingredients, mixing well.
The lemon juice should cover the fish. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator.
Allow one day for fish to cook in the lemon juice and onions.
Serving Suggestions: Serve with tortilla chips, saltines or patacones (fried plantains)

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