Monday, December 28, 2009

“There is no quality in this world that is not what it is merely by contrast. Nothing exists in itself.” - Herman Melville


It's amazing the numerous variations one can come up with around one main ingredient or food and then build a whole restaurant menu on that base. Years ago, way before moving to New York, I heard about Rice to Riches, rice pudding in over twenty flavors like sex drugs and rocky road (no idea what that is) and old fashioned romance (traditional) and about ten different possible toppings like oatmeal coconut crumble or buttery graham cracker blanket. Peanut Butter & Co. is a store in the West Village dedicated to peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. It brings you back to the good ol' days of childhood with a sophisticated twist if you so choose to prentend to be mature. There's The Elvis that is a grilled peanut butter sandwich stuffed with bananas and honey and can even be tried with bacon if you so daringly choose (gross) or The Fluffernutter, freshly ground peanut butter sandwiched with a glob of heavenly marshmallow fluff (hopefully you haven't been deprived as a child and know what this is). The shop that originated in 1998 also offers flavored peanut butter - spicey, white chocolate, cinammon-raisin or chocolate peanut butter.

Over the weekend I tried a savory version of this trend. Mussels - 23 varieties of mussels are offered to customers at Flex Mussels in the Upper East Side. Upon walking in, it looks like a small bar with what I think could be seats for those that don't make reservations because it got really busy starting around 7P. But, walking past the hostess in to a larger room that could seem cold and bare with wooden tables and floors you're greeted by warm aromas of garlic and butter that turns the place to an inviting ambience. The walls are covered in beautifully framed travel photography that bring me back to the days of travel essays and anthropology, inspiring me to add getting back in to photography to my list of new years resolutions.
The pound of mussles are carried out to the table in huge silver pots and lids removed at the table to expose the steamy aroma. While I was tempted to try the Provencal (tomato, basil, saffron, orange zest, pernod, garlic, white wine), South Pacific (kaffir lime leaf, cilantro, white wine, lemongrass), or the Italiano (calamari, roasted garlic, red wine, tomato sauce), I'm happy with my choice of sticking to the Classic (white wine, herbs, garlic) and sharing with my date's Spartan (kalamata olive, garlic, tomato, oregano, olive oil). There are appetizers and other seafood options, but a heaping pot of mussels with homemade fries, that were admittingly disapointing. . . nothing special. . . and complimentary bread to soak up as much remaining liquid as you can stomach is a perfect meal. For dessert, which I don't normally do because I prefer a good savory and fulfilling meal, ending maybe with a port wine or sambuca, we ordered apple bread pudding that was laced with a whiskey caramel sauce sprinkled with cinammony, crunchy granola and served with an egg-shaped scoop of icecream. While I read recommendations about the doughnuts and strawberry shortcake, this dessert was great and perfect with the pressed tea accompaniment. To me, this place seemed like a hidden gem, one of the pricier ones, but perhaps only because I don't frequent that neighborhood hardly ever. It was far too busy and bustling for it to be a secret spot. On our way out, the smells of curry floated past. . .Maybe next time I would be more adventurous with the flavors, but I don't think these mussels need to be smothered in so much extra. I prefer complex simplicity.


Mussels with White Wine, Garlic and Herbs

1 pounds mussels
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 shallot, sliced
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
Scrub the mussels under cold running water and discard any with open or broken shells. Remove the "beard" by pulling off any wiry threads from the seams.
In a large pot, bring the white wine, garlic, shallot and bay leaf to a boil.
Add the mussels, cover and cook for 2 minutes. Remove the cover, stir, recover and cook until the mussels open, about 2 to 3 minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open after 6 minutes.
Ladle the mussels into large bowls. Add the parsley to the broth and pour it over the mussels. Serve immediately.

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